Sewing Material

It seems like such a simple task. Take a couple measurements, match them up to a pattern and select the pattern in your size. The end result -- a beautiful hand-sewn garment that fits. If only we lived in a perfect world.

The reality is that just taking a couple of measurements and matching them to a pattern isn't enough. The approach should be more like this: Take your measurements, match the measurements to the purchased pattern as near as possible, and alter the pattern to match your measurements.

By following this simple (okay, but it is simple after you learn how) approach, you'll learn to sew wearables that fit.

There are two steps to this process. First and foremost, take the time to get good measurements. That's what this article is all about. Be sure to take a realistic look at your figure. If you still don't have the ideal body type after 30, 40 or 50 years, just appreciate what you have. Remember, television is all make-believe anyway.

Your next step is to alter the pattern before you cut it out so the pattern will fit your unique body measurements. Look for tips on pattern alterations in future issues of Sewing Savvy magazine.

GETTING STARTED

Though you can take your measurements yourself, it's advisable to have help from a close friend. We all have a tendency to want to cheat a little on some of the measurements, but if we do, we'll never get the fit we're after. I've found it's far better to bite the bullet and learn to live with figure faults and look to identify and accentuate your positive features.

Remember to wear the same brand name and style of undergarments. Support garments support differently and affect how our outer garments look, hang and lay on our figures. And finally, try not to change weight. A simple addition or subtraction of as little as five pounds can add one to two inches to, if you're like me, your waist measurement or have a tendency to land someplace else equally unattractively.

SUPPLIES

• Proper, good-fitting undergarments
• Shoes with a heel height that you wear every day
• New tape measure
• Ribbon, cut to your waist measurement plus enough to tie in place
• Weighted 18-inch chain or small-link necklace
• 1/8-inch-wide masking tape
• Paper and pen
• A good, honest friend to help take your measurements

TAKING & RECORDING YOUR MEASUREMENTS

Take a deep breath, relax and let's get started. Wear your shoes and stand in a natural position.

Standard Measurements

Bust: Measure around the fullest part of your bust (A). Hold the tape firmly but not taut. Be honest!

High bust: Slide the tape under the armpits, across the upper back and across the upper chest (B).

Waist: Sounds pretty simple, but many individuals don't measure this correctly. Your waist is the location on your midsection that allows you to bend from side to side (C), not where the top of your pants are. Remember to relax, don't suck in your stomach, unless your plan is to suck in your stomach on a day-to-day basis. Tie the ribbon around your waist so you can use your waist measurement as a reference for other measurements.

Hip: Slide the tape measure to the widest part of your hips (D). If you have heavy thighs or some extra tummy, it may not be where you think it is. Measure several areas to be sure you're getting the widest measurement.

Waist to hip: Measure along your hip from your waist ribbon to the widest hip measurement (E). Most misses patterns have a measurement of 7-9 inches; however, yours may vary. If you have a full tummy, it may only be 3 inches.

Underarm to waist: Slightly tilt your arm from your side. Measure about 1 inch below your armpit to your waist ribbon (F). Place a small piece of masking tape beneath your armpit for later sleeve measurements.

Back Measurements

Drape the 18-inch weighted chain or small-link necklace around your neck for the next set of measurements. Position the chain so that the length of the chain lies across your chest.

Shoulder length: Raise your arm to about halfway in an outright position. A dimple should appear at the end of your shoulder and the beginning of your arm. Measure from the outside edge of the chain to the middle of the dimple (G). Place a small piece of masking tape on the dimple for future reference.

Back-to-waist length: Tilt your head slightly forward. As you tilt your head forward, a vertebra should protrude slightly. Position the chain just above this vertebra. Mark the top of the vertebra with a small piece of masking tape. Measure from below the chain (on top of the vertebra) to the waist ribbon (H).

Shoulder point to shoulder point: Measure from shoulder dimple to shoulder dimple (I).

Shoulder width: Measure about 5 inches lower than the masking tape at your neck along your spine. With arms against your sides, measure from arm crease to arm crease (J).

Armhole depth back: Measure from the shoulder dimple to the tape mark under your armpit (K). Don't measure underneath the arm to the tape, just draw an imaginary line extending from the tape.

Front Measurements

Bust point: Measure from the outside edge of the chain at the neckline to the fullest part of the bust (L).

Front length: Continue bust-point measurement to the waist ribbon (L + M).

Front shoulder point: Measure from shoulder point to shoulder point (N).

Arm Measurements

Arm length: Measure from shoulder point, behind elbow to the outside edge of your wrist bone (O). Looking at the back of your hand, the wrist bone is the little knob the protrudes (on the side of your pinky finger) as you bend your hand.

Inside arm length: Measure from approximately 1 inch below armpit (where the tape is under your armpit, but hold the tape against your arm) to wrist indentation (P). Looking at the palm of your hand, the wrist indentation is the dimple that forms as you bend your hand.

Upper arm: Measure around your upper arm about 1 inch below your armpit (Q).

Wrist: Measure around your wrist bone (R).

Neck Measurements

Front neck depth: Feel for the middle of your collarbone. Extend a piece of masking tape in a straight line under the chain. Measure from outside edge of the chain at the neckline (S).

Back neck depth: Repeat as above (T), measuring from the top of the vertebra as in back-to-waist length (H).

Neck: Measure around your neck just above your collarbone.

By now, you're probably exhausted from taking these measurements. Relax, throw your shoes off, and look forward to the next issue of Sewing Savvy magazine, as we apply these measurements against your pattern to determine fit.

SNIP IT

When purchasing a blouse or jacket pattern, match your high-bust measurement (B) as close as possible to the bust size on the pattern. This measurement reflects the size of your rib cage and shoulders.