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American Sewing Guild Conference
By Julie Johnson

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Aug. 8, 2008, Vol. 6 No. 11

American Sewing Guild Conference
I'm proud to say that I am a card-carrying member of the American Sewing Guild (ASG). I'm part of a group of fabric enthusiasts who number about 20,000. We enjoy the following benefits of being guild members:

  • Sharing a love of sewing with other sewing enthusiasts.
  • Learning new sewing techniques and skills while sewing with other guild members.
  • Giving back to our local community through sewing projects for charities.
  • Receiving the latest industry news -- and perhaps best of all,
  • Receiving discounts for sewing-related materials and tools from many sources.
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Another benefit of being a guild member is being able to attend the annual conference. This year, it was held in Chicago and attended by about 833 members. Not only did we have a wonderful time learning new sewing techniques and improving our sewing skills, but we also had the opportunity to see and sew on fabulous new sewing machines and experiment with new sewing products. Any time you combine sewing machines, new and old sewing friends, and sewing divas from around the country, you're bound to have a great weekend.

Next year, I hope to see all of you at the annual conference. You'll have a wonderful time learning, sharing and sewing with other sewing enthusiasts.

For membership information, visit the American Sewing Guild's Web site, Asg.org.

Pati and Julie reading Pati's Sewing Savvy article
Pati & Julie reading Pati's Sewing Savvy article

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Pati Palmer Joins the Sewing Hall of Fame
Pati Palmer, president of Palmer/Pletsch Publishing, was inducted into the Sewing Hall of Fame during the American Sewing Guild's dinner held on Saturday night. Pati's background is impressive. She has written 10 sewing books, edited/published 20 additional books and 11 how-to DVDs, and created eight sewing notions.

American Sewing Guild's annual dinner A sewing toast
American Sewing Guild's annual dinner
A sewing toast

Be sure to read Pati's exclusive interview in the September 2008 issue of Sewing Savvy and visit SewingSavvy.com for more information about her.

classroom participants
Classroom participants -- Pens out and paper ready

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American Sewing Guild Teacher Tips
Though I love all the wonderful tips that each of you share with me, I wanted to give you a taste of what I learned at the conference. The instructors for each class were so wonderful. Plus, with so many choices, I couldn't make it to all of the classes available. Thank goodness this is an annual event so I can take classes again next year.

Christine Jonson
Christine Jonson with fine fitting details

Christine Jonson says to follow the source of the pull on the garment. The source of the pull will alert you to where it needs alteration.

louise Cutting
Louise Cutting with some cutting-edge sewing advice

Louise Cutting says to always let your slinky fabric hang before you sew, to avoid the garment growing after it's sewn. Also, to determine whether a garment needs a nap layout, simply drape it over your neck. If the two ends are different, be sure you cut out the pattern with a nap layout.

Laura Murray
Laura Murray Creating a world of color

Laura Murray says to extend the life of your stencils, don't use a scrubbie. Plus, a great way to store and transport your stencils is in a sheet protector slipped into a binder.

Linda McGehee says, as she ran around the room in a flurry of activity, to get out all of your sewing machine feet. Practice and see what foot works best where. You'll be surprised at how much easier sewing with the right foot can be.

Connie Crawford
Connie Crawford zipping ahead

Connie Crawford says for a truly professional zipper application, extend the fabric for the zipper to a 1-inch seam allowance. Then, try using the skinniest zipper foot you can find, so you don't get hung up on the zipper pull as you sew.

Suzy Seed
Suzy Seed planting bias inspiration

Suzy Seed says to get out your serger and use it, not only to edge-finish seams, but to sew the seams, too!

Emma Seabrooke
Emma Seabrooke sewing with style

Emma Seabrooke says to cover your cutting table with cloth. The cloth top keeps fabric from shifting as you cut.

Nancy Nix-Rice
Nancy Nix-Rice selecting your best color

Nancy Nix-Rice says to select a key neutral color that echoes your hair color to make your wardrobe work together. If you're not sure what your true hair color is, have your beautician clip a small piece from the back of your head, about an inch or two above the back of your neck hairline. This is where your hair is the truest color.

Judy Stint says she's the only artist she knows who can't draw! But she loves to dye. She recommends over-dying when a garment is worn or needs a face lift. This technique is a great way of extending your favorite garment's life.

Nancy Shriber
Nancy Shriber & Sashiko quilting

Nancy Shriber says that Sashiko quilting is actually a hand technique designed to mend and conserve cloth. It's a great way to add textural interest to worn clothing.

After just a few glimpses of the great classes at the 2008 ASG Conference, you can see why I'm so excited about the 2009 annual conference. I hope to see all of you there.

Break time at the ASG Conference
Taking a break at the ASG Conference

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Anti-Ouch Pouch by Deon Maas

Deon says:

After my mastectomy in 2006, I found traditional pillows wanting. The shapes were wrong, and I had to clutch them using sore arm muscles. I decided a wedge-shaped pillow with an access panel to adjust the fiberfill and an adjustable strap was what I needed.

Designing a pillow got me off the couch and freed my hands up, so I could return to my normal routine. I enlisted the help of the American Sewing Guild to get these pillows made and distributed to people who need them. In one year's time, ASG has made this a national project, helping thousands of mastectomy patients (as well as people with broken upper arms and people who have had other chest surgeries). The Peoria Chapter of ASG alone has made and distributed approximately 800 Anti-Ouch Pouches so far.

Though ASG chapters can accept donations to defray the cost of materials, the chapters are not allowed to sell it. These pillows are donated to patients. When I was in the hospital, I was given a camisole donated by a former cancer patient. You cannot imagine the psychological "boost" I got from knowing that a total stranger knew what I was going through and cared enough to give me something that made my recovery easier and gave me a feeling of normalcy.

For more information about sewing the Anti-Ouch Pouch, visit: Asg.org.

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Readers' Questions

Rippling Side Seams

Mary Lucas asks:

I find that the side seams on pants often have a slight ripple near the seam on either side. I have tried taut sewing, feeding the fabric from over my shoulder (as suggested by the Islander method), and using an even-feed foot. None of these ideas have solved the problem. I also press the seams over a ham and a seam roll. Can you offer any suggestions?

Hi Mary, I'm not sure why your seams are rippling. Sometimes it helps to start with the basics. Try changing your needle, loosening your tension and using the same thread in both the needle and bobbin. Hope this helps!

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Archived Newsletters

Veronica Simmons asks:

I have enjoyed all of your newsletters. Do you have an archive directory that I can go to for older newsletters?

Visit FreePatterns.com and scroll to the bottom of the page where the Site Index is listed. Find the "Sewing" heading and click on the very last entry "Newsletters." Once you are on that page, you will see Sewing Newsletter Archives on the right side of the page that date back to October 2005. Or just click on the following link: FreePatterns.com.

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Adding Boning

Sue asks:

What is the best way of adding boning to a lined evening dress?

Sue, try opening the lining at the inside waist and sliding the boning next to each seam. Sew the boning to the lining by hand by carefully pinning the boning into position and sewing through the lining fabric on the outside.

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Adding T-shirt Vents

Bev Wing asks:

How do you put a vent into a T-shirt?

Try putting vents into T-shirts on each side seam as follows.
1. Measure about 3-inches up on each side seam and mark. Using a wide zigzag with a short length, secure the seam at the 3-inch mark.
2. Carefully open the side seam up to the mark. Cut two small pieces of tricot interfacing measuring 3 x 1 inches. Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the T-shirt. Serge or zigzag-finish the raw edge of the opened seam.
3. With wrong sides together, fold the open edges of the 3-inch vent to the wrong side and pin into place. Using a ballpoint needle and slightly longer stitch length, topstitch into place.

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Pant Sizing Perfection

Susan K. asks:

What pattern size should I buy if my waist and tummy are as large as my hips?

Always buy your patterns in the larger of your hip or waist measurement and alter from there.

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Make a Dress Form

Harlean Saunders-Fox asks:

I'm looking for instructions on making my own dress form. Any ideas?

Try visiting the following Web site. Jean Haas has a DVD that will give you the information on how to make a custom dress form from a turtleneck and duct tape.
Go to: Dressformdesigning.com.

Do you have any serger or sewing questions? What new techniques are you interested in learning? Send your serger or sewing-machine questions, difficulties with fabric questions or ask me for some alteration tips by clicking here. Your solution is only a click away.

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Readers' Comments

Sew On Knits

Judy says:

I want to add that in the UK sergers are called "overlockers." I've been sewing for nearly 50 years, mostly with stretch fabrics, lots of T-shirting, etc, and it is perfectly possible to achieve good results without a serger! I use a triple straight stitch for the seams and neaten the edges with a zigzag. On finer materials I make the zigzags closer together, but on heavier materials such as stretch denim or canvas, I space the zigzags out. Hope this gives you the confidence to not buy a serger!

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Programmer by Day

Jeffrey Smith says:

I am a computer technician for a government agency. My job puts me in contact with hundreds of people each day. They all want one thing, free service on their home PC. When I started charging, they all ran the other way.

I started sewing to get away from the computer repairs and to make Christmas gifts for friends. The hobby has now turned into a very "lu-creative" business, one that I'm going to carry into retirement. It's been four years, and I'm still at it, loving every minute of it.

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More Uncool Sewing Responses

Luanne Redmond says:

Your son is not being completely honest with you. What you are seeing is not so much badly fitted clothing as fashion statements. The standard fitting rules we grew up with don't necessarily apply anymore. Sometimes they are part of a new DIY (Do-It-Yourself) movement in which the kids rip, pin or sew their clothes in their own way. I encourage these self-expressions. They're having fun with fashion. Sometimes clothes that don't fit well were purchased at secondhand stores, and the fit, or lack of it, is part of the charm. That, too, is a good trend since it's a form of recycling as opposed to expensive, elitist consumerism!

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Teach Children to Sew

Yvonne Taylor says:

I agree with several of your readers that it is essential for children to learn to sew. I loved sewing classes when I was a school and have made certain that my daughter can follow a dress-making pattern and make her own clothes. When she was eight, she sewed a dress with a neatly sewn-in zipper that she did by herself! At 16, she made an Elizabethan costume for her drama exam which gained her an A.

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Clean Your Stash

Nancy says:

I found my workroom was shrinking! I had too much of everything, so I couldn't find anything. I took myself to task and went through all my fabric and divided many of the lengths in half. This, I set aside and donated to a local senior center for their craft group.

Now I am a member of the group, and when they need special pieces, I am happy to share with them. I look forward to seeing what everyone brings in each week for show and tell.

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Love the Readers

Vicki Reynolds says:

You have so many ideas. If my creative juices are waning, I know you will provide the spark to keep the fire aglow! And your readers! I wonder if they are extensions of my family? You are so creative, and your ideas are unique, creative and up-to-date. Best of all, they are "do-able."

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Source for Online Quilt Classes

Maria Hrabovsky says:

In the June 27 issue, Virginia Carroll says that she wants to learn to quilt. May I recommend Quilt Campus where she can learn online? I teach a beginning quilter class there, and a new class will begin this fall. There are classes for experienced quilters as well. Alternately, Virginia can, of course, look for a quilt shop nearby and sign up for lessons. There are also great books, videos, and DVDs she can use to learn to quilt. Visit Quilt Campus here: Quiltcampus.net

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Thanks Mom!

Debbie says:

Sewing is to me:

  • a gift from my mom;
  • a decorating tool with my first home;
  • a necessity with growing children;
  • a comfort as the family grows;
  • a hobby as the family goes;
  • a friend as I age;
  • and a gift to pass along to my children.

Thanks Mom. I wish you could have known my family. They know you!

Do you have a comment about sewing that you want to get off your chest? Are you inspired to sew from watching your favorite TV personality, or do you like to try out new techniques from reading books and magazines? Or, perhaps you've taken an interesting class from a great teacher. Click here, and let me know so I can pass it on to our other readers.

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Vintage Sewing
Vintage fabric is fun to find and even more fun to sew. Try combining small scraps and amounts to make unique home decor items, such as our simple-to-sew pillow made from vintage hankies.

Click here for a printable version.

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Until next time, sew on and sew forth,

Julie Johnson signature
Julie Johnson
Editor, Sewing Savvy magazine

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Select a newsletter from the list below to view our archived editions.

American Sewing Guild Conference - 2008-08-08

Summertime Sewing - 2008-07-18

Do You Love to Sew? - 2008-06-27

A Fellowship Of Sewing - 2008-06-06

What We All Love to Sew - 2008-05-16

Enthusiasm for Sewing - 2008-04-25